I had geese for the past 7 years and I love them ! They remind me of toddlers with their curiosity and intelligence. Just like ducks though, geese are not for everyone. Waterfowl are just a lot of work in general, especially in the winter, because you have to haul water, from inside the house. I basically change water for my 5 geese and 14 ducks about 3 times a day. They make really nice pets though, for anyone who loves them.
Geese can also be very loud. So your neighbor might not like, being woken up, very early in the morning, because your geese are screaming. Geese scream for a variety of reasons. To communicate with each other, to warn of a predator, while mating, when excited, when they see you. This is why it is not a good idea to keep geese, if you have close neighbors. They can be very good watchdog for your flock though, and help protect them from threats.
The term for a female goose is a goose, while the term for a male goose is a gander. Young geese are referred to as goslings, and a group of geese is known as a gaggle.
Caring for Goslings
Today, hatcheries produce day-old goslings, in large numbers. Commercial growers brood and rear them, in about the same way, as baby chicks. Geese are hardy, and are not susceptible, to many of the common poultry diseases. This makes them easy to raise and keep. Brooding requirements are simple, and special housing or equipment, is not necessary. Because of their rapid growth and early feathering, they do not require as long a brooding period, as chicks.
Waterfowl grow very quickly. Make sure you enlarge their pen as needed, and add clean bedding as necessary. Typically it is better to add clean bedding on top of the old bedding, instead of removing the soiled bedding every day. You can clean it all out once, the birds are moved to a new pen. The bedding can be removed from their permanent pen every few months, or as needed.
Normally the post office will call you, when your birds arrive, and ask you to pick them up. When you get them home, dip the bill of each bird in water, as it is the most important thing, they need at this time. I always have a packet of electrolytes on hand, when I get my new birds, so that when they arrive, they can get their strength, and are rehydrated quickly. Make sure they tip their head back to drink. If they have had a rough journey and seem weak, this will help them a lot. If they look sleepy, this means they are dehydrated.
Your brooder is the place your goslings will call home, for the first 2 weeks of their life. It is important, that it is set up properly for them. Goslings grow quickly, make sure your brooder provides enough space, or they will outgrow it very fast. You will want to allow at least 1.5 square feet per gosling, in your brooder. It can be located inside the house or a barn, garage, as long as the area, is protected from drafts, predators (including dogs, cats, rodents), and sudden temperature changes.
It is important that goslings live in draft-free environment, with proper ventilation. Drafts and poor ventilation, can cause unwanted health problems. Do NOT place them in cages, with wire bottoms, as this can cause serious feet and beak injuries. Additionally, make sure surfaces are not slippery, as goslings can slip and injure their legs. You can use rubber drawer liners, or rubber mats, on the floor (under their bedding) to ensure a non-slip surface.
Use an appropriate bedding. Paper towels are great for the first few days, while they are learning to eat. After the first few days, you can switch to something like pine shavings. Make sure to replace soiled and damp bedding regularly. Don’t brood on newspaper, as the slippery surface, does not give them any grip, and and can lead to them developing splayed legs. Gosling living spaces should have clean, dry bedding, at all time.
Pine, aspen wood shavings or straw are less ideal, but still an option. Straw bedding can increase the risk of aspergillosis, so some bird caregivers choose to avoid it entirely. Additionally, because straw is not overly absorbent, its use could increase the gosling’s risk of bumble foot. Cedar should never be used in avian living spaces, as it can cause severe respiratory issues. Goslings will nibble at anything, so make sure that there is nothing dangerous they can nibble on.
Do not overcrowd your birds, as that can cause increased bacterial and parasite risk. Because waterfowl can be very messy, you will want to cover the floor, with at least 2 inches of wood shavings, or straw for bedding. Make sure that any bedding materials you use, have not been treated with chemicals, and is mold-free.
Gosling need less heat than chicks. The heat needs will depend on ambient air temperature, humidity, and flow of air. Unlike chicks that you start off at 95 degrees, you start off at 90 degrees and then lower the temperature by five to seven degrees per week.
Please note: heat lamps are a serious fire risk. If you use a heat lamp, make sure to not place it any closer than 18 inches, from the bedding, walls, or any other structures, in the brooder. Many people worry about, whether their babies are warm enough, or too warm. The best way to judge the comfort of the birds, is to watch them. If they are all huddled under the heater, they need more heat. If they are all bedded down, away from the heater, the heat is too low. If they are breathing with their mouths open, (panting) its too warm, in the room. Comfortable birds should be spread throughout the brooder, with some eating, some drinking, other sleeping.
Gosling must be given non-medicated, commercially-produced, waterfowl starter feed crumbles. Crumbles are preferred over powder, as goslings can choke on powdery feeds. Goslings should not be given medicated feed, that is not formulated, specifically for them.
Goslings are ready for feed and water, when they arrive home. Keep feed for the birds, full at all times, when they are young. They grow really fast and they need to eat very often. Place feed on a flat surface for the first few days, so it’s easier for them to reach. Make sure the feed you are using, contains only additives, approved for geese. Certain types of drugs, that are sometimes included in chick starters, for coccidiosis control, are harmful to goslings. They may cause lameness or even death.
Goslings need more niacin, than many commercial starter feeds provide, so be on the lookout for niacin deficiency: Weak or bowed legs, stunted growth, and enlarged hocks are all a sign of niacin deficiency. To prevent this, add niacin to drinking water at 100-150 mg per gallon from 0-10 weeks of age. Be aware that most plant-based niacin, is not available for waterfowl, to metabolize, but once your young waterfowl are able to forage and eat insects, they will usually get enough niacin.
You want to provide grit, when the birds begin to eat anything, but waterfowl feed. Grit is used by their crop, to help them digest food.
Make arrangements to provide grass, starting as early as the first week. When the weather is mild, goslings can be let out and allowed to graze when only a few days old. Grass is the natural food number 1, for geese. Great savings in feed, can be made by providing good pasture, throughout the growing period. At five or six weeks of age, they can subsist entirely on good pasture, although some supplemental feeding is recommended, until the birds are completely feathered.
Bluegrass, orchard grass, timothy and bromegrass have been used successfully. Grains such as barley, wheat and rye make excellent early or fall pasture. Goslings or geese will love clover, lespedeza or alfalfa.
You will need to design your waterer in such a way that the babies, cannot get into the water and become soaked, which can lead to chilling. However, they will need enough water to dip their bill under, to clean their nares. Another option is putting a scrap piece of 2×4 lumber under the waterer, so they can drink, but not actually get into the water. Make sure the elevated waterer is steady enough, to keep them from knocking it over. Goslings consume enormous quantities of feed and water, due to rapid growth.
Goslings can be successfully brooded, by broody chicken hens. Place them under your broody hen at night. Provide the hen and her brood with a dry comfortable shelter. Do not use a goose to brood new eggs or care for new gosling. Geese are not always welcoming of babies, they do not know. They can even kill the gosling, if they do not want to care for it, unless you are sure that your goose will accept the babies.
What to feed your gosling if you don’t have gosling food on hand. You can provide a diet recommended by wildlife rehabilitators, by mixing 2 ounces of human baby mixed grain cereal, with 2.5 ounces of each of the following: baby food puree, water, and Pedialyte.
Goslings are social and should be brought up with other goslings, when possible. If you rescue a group of goslings, you can typically quarantine them as a group, separating them only, if individuals aren’t getting along, or if a gosling has health issue. Goslings learn important skills from their mother and should not be separated, unless absolutely necessary.
During introductions, you should watch for any signs of older geese “picking on” or biting the goslings, and intervene immediately.
Goslings can be particularly susceptible to certain illnesses and diseases. When caring for goslings, it’s important to be familiar with some of the more common health challenges, they face, so you can watch closely for signs of these issues, in your gaggle. Goslings should be monitored closely for any signs of illness including lethargy, decreased appetite, diarrhea, labored breathing, panting, and sinus flaring. If a gosling appears to be separating themselves from the flock, this could be a sign of illness or a sign that they are getting picked on.
Pay close attention to their mobility. Healthy goslings, should walk and run, without any sign of lameness. If they get picked on, separate them immediately. Place the single gosling with another young companion like a duckling, or chicks. If you see that there is a gosling that seem weak and not getting enough food and water, separate them, for the next 2 weeks or so, until they get their strength back.
For hours of entertainment, you may want to provide your birds, with swimming water. Goslings can be introduced to swimming water, as early as two weeks of age, but you need to be very careful when doing so. They must be able to walk in and out of the water very easily. The water should not be too cold, and they have to be able to find their heated area, for warming up. As they have no oil on their feathers at this age, they cannot be in the water for long periods, or they will become waterlogged, and even drown.
Venturing Outdoors
If the weather is warm and calm, you can begin taking healthy goslings out, for supervised outdoor time, but they should not be left unattended, or remain out for long periods of time, until they are at least 6 weeks old. Additionally, even after they are old enough to spend time outside, without constant supervision, be aware that they may need to be encouraged back, into their indoor living space, during inclement weather. Geese are like toddlers that often, do not want to go to bed.
Best geese breed
I can’t say that one kind, is better than another. It all depends on how you raise them, in my opinion. Geese have their unique, individual personalities. They can be aloof, friendly, curious, some like being petted, others don’t. I had a very great experience with Buff/Toulouse. Dino was a gentle giant. Very calm, docile, quiet bird. I know Buff geese are a very gentle, social, docile breed. Chinese geese are also very friendly, but they are LOUD! I would say buff geese are a decent starter goose or Chinese, if you don’t have close neighbors.
How to sex a goose
A male goose is called a “gander”. His neck will be longer and thicker than a female. He will try to place himself between you, and those he wants to protect. Ganders tend to move their heads, with more snake like movements. They are more likely to try to bite people, and other animals to protect his mate. They also hiss a lot more than females. They are slightly bigger than females, but not by much.
You can also sometimes tell by the tail of the bird. The length of the tail can tell you whether the sex is a male or female, or if it’s a young goose. The tail feathers on an adult male goose are rounded; on a female, the tail feathers are pointed.
Geese are known for their loud honk-like sounds. They are highly susceptible to the process of imprinting, in which newly hatched goslings, will accept the first living being they see as their mother. Imprinting, as well as their quirky personalities, affectionate natures and high intelligence make geese popular as pets. I also noticed that my females would “Preen” my hair a lot, while gander don’t do that. They usually tend to pull on my clothes, rather than try preening my hair. My gander would pull on my shirt repetitively, or just pull on my clothes, chew on my shoe laces. If you work in your yard, your geese will often come and check out what you are doing. They are very curious animals.
Many birds display obvious and often elaborate differences between sexes, in terms of size or appearance. This sexual dimorphism is not as clear between male and female geese, who often look very similar. My pair of white Embden geese look identical, except for the sounds they make, and their size. My female Lily is much louder than my male, who is more quiet and has a “soft talk” There are varieties, who display clear physical differences, and others who show subtle differences, in behavior and vocal patterns. The key differences, between a male and female goose, are their vocalizations, behaviors and reproductive role.
Size
Male and female geese, don’t differ wildly in size. Size differences between males and females, vary among the many wild, and domestic geese species. However, with most species the males tend to be slightly larger than the females. They will also typically have larger bodies, with wider heads and necks. Canada geese weigh an average of 5-12 pounds and ganders weigh 7-14 pounds. They have a body length average of about 2.5-3.5 feet and a 4-6 foot wingspan. Pilgrim geese are a medium weight breed. Female Pilgrims weigh an average of 12-16 pounds while male Pilgrims weigh in at 14-18 pounds.
But again, if you watch my Youtube videos on my channel, you would have a very hard time telling, if my goose Nikki is actually a female, unless you saw her lay an egg, or heard her honking. Because she is mixed, she is built like a male, very large and stocky, long, thick neck, broad head and dominates my female Nina by “mating her”. Nikki is a mix goose between an African and Chinese goose. She is African in size, but stands upright like a Chinese goose. Her knob is very small compared to my Chinese male. Usually the female’s knob will be a lot less prominent than the males.
African and Chinese geese have head knobs, that vary in size between the sexes. This knob is on top of the beak, and those of males, will grow noticeably larger than those of the females. Males head knobs tend to stand upright, while females may be level, or have a downward tilt. African geese may also have a dewlap, which is a flap of skin that hangs on their “chin”. Females’ dewlaps are usually much smaller than those of males.
Behaviors
Geese form lifelong monogamous bonds, with a single partner, this is particularly true of them in the wild. The courtship displays of Canada geese are typically elaborate. Courting behavior involves neck dipping of both males and females, who swim out and face each other. Female geese judge the displays of males and choose a mate based on how well she thinks he will protect her.
A female goose will begin to follow a male, that she has chosen as a mate, and stand next to him wherever he goes. (My goose Lily has chosen Leo as her partner, and she follows him everywhere. She also stood guard next to him, when he was not feeling well. She will screams if he gets too close to me, and nip me) Greetings between mated pairs, who were separated, involve loud honking communications, and head rolling of the male. You may find male geese loudly honking, while chasing and biting one another. They fight over mates, and defend the ones, who have already chosen them.
Because male geese have a protective nature and take on the role of protecting their mate, you will probably find them to be more aggressive than females. They are the guardians of both their mates and gaggle, will protect with harsh hissing and confident body postures. Female geese will display aggressive behaviors when protecting their nest, eggs or young from potential predators. Males may tend to hold themselves more upright than females, who tend to have a more neutral stance.
Geese in the winter
Geese are cold, hardy and resilient birds, but they do need some special care, to keep them healthy and happy, during winter. But you have to keep in mind, that if you own a Chinese, African or mixed Chinese/African/geese, that have knobs on their forehead, you will need to protect them from frostbite. The knob is a warm, fleshy part of a gander or goose, and if they get frostbite on them, it will hurt them. You can put Vaseline on the knob, in the winter, to protect them from the bitter cold.
Water and Feed
A pellets maintenance, when they are older, plus cracked corn, wheat, milo, oats or other grain can be fed. Make sure you protect their feed, from rain and snow. Otherwise the moisture may spoil the feed, and cause illness in your birds.
Plenty of drinking water should be available at all times. The key with waterfowl is making sure they always have access to water. Geese have trouble swallowing without water: Their nostrils can become plugged with feed, if they can’t rinse them, while feeding.
Rubber water trays, are easy to empty, when the water freezes over, and deep enough for waddling. They’re ideal if you’re going to be around, most of the time. If you’ll be away, for more than a few hours a day, it’s a great idea to invest in a large, heated dog water bowl, for your geese.
Enough water to splash about is key to keep them healthy in winter. Their preening spreads sealing oils, across their feathers, which help keep them buoyant, in water and lock heat in, when it’s cold. Being able to bathe in water, allows for the most complete preen possible, but as long as your birds can submerge their heads, and work the water through their bills, they can create enough oil, to keep themselves comfy.
While watering your fowl is a must, keep in mind that any splashing indoors, will soak your bird’s bedding, which in turn will become icy. Whenever possible, provide water outdoors, in a clear area, so that the mess your birds make, is manageable.
- Geese are grazing birds, that eat a variety of different items, but 80% of their diet is grass. They eat roots, shoots, stems, seeds, and leaves of grass and grain, bulbs, berries, weeds, insects, oats, birdseed, cracked corn, peas, lettuce, kale, grapes. They also love watermelon ! Geese are a little bit more picky about their food, than ducks, in general.
Grass: Grasses make up the majority of a goose’s diet. Short, fresh spring grass is preferred and has the most nutritional content.
Waterfowl are very winter hardy. Their down, the same stuff used in pillows and comforters, keeps them warm. If their feet become too cold, they’ll sit and bring their legs up close to their body, to keep warm. Normally geese would rather spend their day out, in the snow, than inside. You will be amazed at the amount of time they will spend outside, even if it’s cold.
Housing for geese
Geese don’t require expensive accommodation with perches, although they need a reasonable size house. A shed will serve them well, and you can put mesh in place of the windows, to give them some ventilation. You can keep a single pair of medium, or large geese comfortably, in a large shed. The most common shed size is 6 x 4ft and make a good size, with a little extra space, if they end up hatching goslings.
During the winter I recommend a thick base layer of shavings to stop any drafts and a top layer of straw for them to keep warm in. Whenever the weather is warm enough, I do a deep clean of the goose enclosure. I put a layer of diatomaceous earth down, to help ensure everything is sanitary and fresh. For really cold areas, an extra layer or two of bedding in the coop, will help to keep your birds toasty at night.
An enclosed shelter is important, to keep them healthy, through winter. Walls help to keep out, cold and blowing wind. Keeping birds close together, within an enclosed space, increases heat from shared body warmth. Even when you’ve let your fowls out, in the open weather for the day, it’s a good idea to leave the access to the shelter open, so that they can get in out of the wind, if they so choose.
A shelter needs proper ventilation, so that condensation from body heat and breath, doesn’t build up. While it might seem like you want your coop airtight, trapped moisture is actually more dangerous for birds in winter, than colder, drier air. You can achieve a well-ventilated shelter, without allowing it to be drafty, by putting small air holes at the top of the shelter. This will still allow your birds to stay out of the wind, and the bitter cold. The requirement for insulation depends on your location. Most waterfowl coops do not need insulation, unless your winter nights, frequently get down to 15 degrees or less. Otherwise your birds just need a shed, that has plenty of bedding, and protection from winds. Heating is only required, to keep temperatures above 0 degrees.
If you can smell ammonia in your pen, it does not have adequate ventilation.
A wood, concrete, or dirt floor is satisfactory. Allow about 1-1/2 square feet of floor space per bird, and cover the floor with about 4 inches of absorbent litter. Sawdust, shavings, ground corn cobs, cottonseed hulls, peanut hulls or peat moss are all good.
Housing must be secure against predators. The main one is the fox, of course, but badgers will also kill geese. Badgers are very strong and capable of tearing at planks of wood, on poultry houses or weak fencing areas.
The safest way to keep foxes and badgers away at night, is to place the goose house, inside a protected/fenced area. Weasels, mink, and rats, can cause problems for goslings, even adult geese, and squeeze through small holes, so ensure ventilation holes, are covered with a sturdy mesh.
The winter months are a prime time for predators, to try for your birds, as there are fewer prey animals, for them to hunt. Check the fencing of your run, and repair as needed. If you do not have a top on your run to protect from air attacks, try to provide cover. Bushes and even picnic tables work great, or trampolines. Geese are smart and will run under cover, if they feel threatened by something.
The best thing to do during the winter months, is to keep an eye on your birds, and adapt as you go. If you find it is too cold in the coop, take measures to warm it up. If the feed is spoiling, find a way to keep it dry. Winter do not last forever, taking measures to protect your birds, will make the time, both pleasant and quicker. I do not leave feed and water in their night shelter. Waterfowl like playing and bathing in their drinking water, and this will spoil their area very fast, and make it too humid. Humidity is very bad for a bird. You want to keep their sleeping area dry and clean.
Your birds can easily go 8 hours, without feed and water. The time you usually sleep. We put ours in, before we go to sleep, and let them out when we get up. No water or food in between, and they are just fine. This prevent more messes in their sleeping area, and make cleaning a lot easier, and less frequent. Do not leave food without water. They need water with their food, as their food is usually very dry, like pellet or corn, and water helps them swallow their food, a lot easier.
Fencing for geese
Unlike chickens and other poultry, waterfowl are active at night, and can see reasonably well in the dark. Keep in mind that geese may make noise at night, if they spot something unusual. When it’s quiet at night, this noise can travel some distance, potentially disturbing sleeping neighbors. My gander Leo for example, has had night terrors, even since he was a gosling. He starts screaming randomly, in the middle of the night, when something non threatening spook him. It only last a few seconds, but it’s very loud.
A simple, secure, predator-proof structure, will work to keep them safe at night. If neighborhood dogs are not a threat, a 3-foot high chicken wire fence can keep flightless breeds contained during the day. If neighborhood dogs are a problem, a taller, stronger fence will be required.
Apart from housing, electric fencing, is the only big investment you will need to make, when keeping geese. I have tried several solutions and found that for large areas, it is better to use electric wires, on the outside of the fence, to deter climbers (such as mink, weasel, rats) foxes and badgers, who may try to dig under a fence, especially on soft soils.
The mesh size is too small for smaller predators to squeeze through, and thick enough to prevent badgers or foxes from tearing it. An electric wire would run at low-level to prevent digging and close to the fence at the top, to stop climbers from running over, the top of the fence.
Caring for Geese Once Mature
- As soon as you think they can defend themselves against rats and no longer need the heat, they can go into their adult coop. I make sure that my geese have shelter from the sun, during the day, and from the rain, at least until they have their adult feathers.
- Gradually wean them off the chick feed. You can replace this with pellets. Check with your animal food supplier, to make sure you are giving them, the correct ones. You can also slowly add in wheat and maize.
- If they look a bit off-color, are being sluggish, not rushing to eat, sitting or staying alone, and/or limping or falling over, get them straight to the vet.