While geese LOVE water and enjoy periodic access to at least a shallow wading pool, they don’t have to have access to water all the time. You can let them have a “swimming party” once a week or so, or whenever it fits your schedule. You’ll enjoy it, too, as they will put on quite a show! When finished, you can use the water in your garden, so nothing is wasted.
Unlike chickens Geese won’t scratch around and destroy your plants. But they will do an excellent job of clearing out the young, succulent weeds from your garden, along with pests like slugs, bugs, mosquito larvae.
Managing Geese Outside During Winter
- Shelter: When conditions are the harshest, even the best winter coat may not be enough. If the temperature is going to be below freezing for long periods of time, your waterfowl will appreciate access to a simple, dry shelter, especially at night. Preferably, the shelter will be lockable, providing protection from winter’s strongest winds and nature’s hungriest predators. You will likely want to provide such a shelter for your waterfowl all year long, regardless of temperature, for predator protection.
- Water: You may want to withhold swimming water from your ducks and geese during the coldest days of winter. Especially if they are housed with chickens. They will inevitably splash cold water onto their flockmates, which will not be appreciated by the chickens! Also, in extreme cold, ducks and geese with wet feet from recent swimming may actually freeze to the ground if they stand in one place too long. If that happens, you’ll need to gently pour warm (not hot!) water around their feet to set them free. Ducks and geese are uniquely qualified to be outside during winter. They may only need a little extra help when the temperatures plunge for long periods of time.
- Frostbite: In extremely cold temperatures, ducks and geese can be susceptible to frostbite on their feet and exposed skin. Providing straw or other bedding in their shelter can help insulate them from the cold ground.
- Ventilation: Adequate ventilation in their shelter is essential to prevent moisture buildup and maintain good air quality. Poor ventilation can lead to respiratory issues. Ensure their coop is well ventilated but not drafty.
Unfortunately, since geese are prey animals, the main cause of death is usually predators, especially dogs. So the most important thing you can do to help your waterfowl live a long, happy life, is to provide predator protection for them, which can include a secure coop, and automatic door opener.
Keep in mind that the specific requirements for geese during the winter, can vary depending on their breed, age, and the local climate. It’s essential to research and adapt your care practices to the specific needs of your birds and the conditions, in your area.
- Since geese are social flock animals, it is not recommended that you keep just one (unless you are prepared to give it a LOT of consistent attention). A solitary waterfowl will feel lonely and vulnerable. We recommend you keep at least two, but three or more may be even better for the psychological health of your birds.
- Geese must be handled carefully. As waterfowl, they have fragile legs and necks and can be easily injured.
- They can be messy! Geese LOVE to splash around in their water, so be prepared to handle that by cleaning up after them regularly, moving their wading pool frequently. Goslings will need their bedding cleaned several times a day, as well because they are little poop machines!
- Geese should not be kept indoors permanently. While they may be kept indoors their first few weeks of life when they are young, when they develop their adult feathering they will need to go outside. Geese want to be able to do “waterfowl” things: searching for slugs and bugs, eating young plants, and splashing in water. Staying cooped up inside all the time, does not make for happy, healthy waterfowl
- Some geese can be aggressive–especially males during mating season. While some breeds, such as the Sebastopol, Pilgrim, and American Buff seem to be more docile, the African and Chinese can be more aggressive, especially in spring. However, in some situations, the females are very aggressive and the males are very tame. Some geese can be “trained” to be less aggressive. Often, a very young, “imprinted” gosling will still be very bonded to its owners as an adult. But sometimes that very same goose will become aggressive since it doesn’t have any respect or fear of humans. It boils down to the fact that each goose is an individual, and perhaps some luck is involved.
.
Geese health issues
Angel Wing
Angel wing is a condition that causes a goose’s wing feathers, to turn outwards. A diet high in protein and excess calories, is thought to be a common cause of angel wing, though genetics, incubation and hatching issues, as well as restricted exercise, may also be contributing factors. Angel wing is the result of new feathers developing faster than the musculoskeletal structures necessary to support them. The weight of these new feathers, cause the joint to twist. As a result, the affected wing tip(s) is not able to be tucked into a normal position against the body.
When caught very early, angel wing can be corrected, but you should consult with a veterinarian to make sure you are taking appropriate corrective measures (while also addressing the underlying cause, if applicable). While bandages and splints are often used to correct angel wing, it is imperative you are shown how to do this correctly as improper technique can have unintended consequences. If not caught early, before the bones have mineralized, the condition will be permanent. While permanent disfiguration of the wing(s) is detrimental in free-living wild geese since, it prevents them from being able to fly, Sanctuary residents can live a happy, healthy life with the condition.
Aspergillosis
Aspergillosis is a non-contagious fungal disease that typically manifests as respiratory illness in birds. While there are numerous species of Aspergillus any of a genus (Aspergillus) of ascomycetous fungi with branched radiate sporophores including many common molds, Aspergillus fumigatus, a ubiquitous soil fungus, is the most common cause in geese. Aspergillosis is an opportunistic infection, while birds are constantly exposed to fungal spores, often without developing disease, immunosuppression (such as from stress, corticosteroid use, disease, or malnutrition) and being exposed to large numbers of aerosolized spores, may result in disease. Poor ventilation, unsanitary conditions, wet bedding, moldy food, and warm, humid conditions increase the risk of aspergillosis. Therefore, you can help protect your birds by properly storing food, keeping living spaces clean and well ventilated, and ensuring spaces do not become warm and humid.
Straw bedding can harbor mold and fungus, so wood shavings or other non-straw (and non-hay) bedding is a better option, if aspergillosis is a concern. Signs of aspergillosis include open-mouth breathing, labored breathing, tail bobbing, gasping, and an elevated respiratory rate. Other signs include inappetence and lethargy. Be sure to contact your veterinarian if you suspect aspergillosis. Diagnosis can be challenging, so be sure to work with your veterinarian to see what diagnostics they recommend. Treatment is also challenging and often requires aggressive and prolonged antifungal treatment (such as itraconazole) as well as supportive care. In addition to treatment, be sure to take steps to reduce your residents’ exposure to spores by keeping living spaces dry, ensuring food and bedding are not wet or moldy, switching from straw to a safer bedding option, and improving ventilation.
Internal Parasites
Geese are susceptible to internal parasites. Sometimes cases are mild, but parasitic infections have the potential to be quite serious and, if left untreated, can even be fatal. Be sure to speak to your vet about the best screening protocols for geese, and if you suspect an individual has an internal parasitic infection, make sure to consult with your veterinarian, regarding diagnosis and treatment. Consider discussing an anti-parasite treatment plan for all your geese, with your veterinarian.
Leg Issues
Geese may be born with obvious leg deformities, or develop leg issues as they grow (the terms “splay leg” or “spraddle leg” are often used to refer to deformities that result in one or both legs turning outward). There are many potential causes of leg issues in goslings, including incubation issues, nutritional deficiencies, or injury. Depending on the specific issue, correction may be possible, but this requires veterinary assessment to determine the cause. Do not attempt to splint or bandage legs without guidance from a veterinarian, as this could cause more harm.
To help prevent leg issues caused by slipping injury, be sure to provide adequate traction for goslings. Hard substrates and improper flooring can lead to bumblefoot, which can become so severe that it can cause joint, or bone infections if not addressed. Goslings should not be kept on cement flooring, and all housing should have appropriate padding to prevent this sort of injury. Be sure to regularly inspect their feet for signs of lesions.
Omphalitis
Omphalitis is an infection of the navel and/or yolk sac. This may be caused by contamination of the egg or incubator, or due to goslings being exposed to contaminated environments before their navel has closed. Goslings with omphalitis may have an inflamed navel, there may be discharge or a scab, and it may fail to close. The abdomen of infected goslings becomes enlarged, the gosling may feel “flabby”, and there is typically a putrid odor from the gosling. Other signs include refusal to eat, lethargy, huddling near heat sources, and droopiness. Death can occur within the first 24 hours of hatching, and goslings may appear healthy until just a few hours before death. If you rescue newly hatched goslings, keep an eye out for this disease and contact your veterinarian immediately any time a gosling is showing signs of illness.
Vent Pasting
Geese can develop a condition, which is commonly called “pasty butt”, where feces stick to their vent, clogging it and making it impossible for them to defecate. Left untreated, this is fatal. While certain diseases can cause diarrhea, leading to vent pasting, other times stress or even temperature changes can lead to vent pasting as well. “Pasty butt” is a symptom, not a diagnosis, and in cases where this is a concern, a veterinarian should be consulted to diagnose and treat the underlying cause. During the first two weeks of life, you should check a gosling’s vent at least once daily, gently cleaning as needed. Be aware that goslings can chill easily, and they do not have their waterproof feathers, until they are older, so clean their vent without getting them overly wet. A dampened cotton swab can usually do the trick.
Wry Neck
Wry neck, an unnatural twisting of the neck, can be a result of trauma, toxins, a vitamin deficiency, or an issue during incubation. This twisting can range from minor to severe. If one of your gosling residents is showing signs of wry neck, be sure to consult with your veterinarian immediately, in order to determine the cause and best treatment options. In some cases vitamin supplementation may be necessary. In severe cases, individuals may have difficulty walking, eating, and drinking. Be sure to provide supportive care as necessary to ensure they are able to get the nutrients they need and make sure their current living arrangement is safe for them.
Geese make good watchdog
Geese become excited and noisy if confronted by intruders or strange sounds. They respond by making a hissing sound, or screaming. I have seen my geese corner a cat and stand still around it until we went out to chase the cat away. That also helps to protect our ducks. Another time they cornered a skunk and waited there until we chased it away. Geese are a really GOOD addition if you want a good bird to protect your ducks or smaller birds. My Chinese goose let us know there was a hawk by an unusual scream and sure enough there was a threat when we went out there. They are very good at sounding the alarm to warn us of any danger.
Geese are territorial
Geese have a reputation for attacking or chasing anyone that crosses their path. That is another reason that they can be aggressive. Geese are extremely territorial. They like to be in their own space and do not want to share it with anyone else except other birds that were raised with them. This is why they will keep predators away. BUT ! They would obviously not be able to chase anything bigger than a fox away. They can be susceptible to bigger predator so you have to be careful. They like to roam around because they are also very curious birds and are very intelligent. So you will need a good enclosure to keep them in and secure from predators.
3 geese for 1 male
Unlike ducks, it is possible to keep a pair of male/female geese together without the male over mating the female. Gander are usually not as bad as drakes but it’s always a good idea if you have several geese to at least have 2-3 females per gander if you have more than 1 gander. I have 2 gander that are perfectly fine with our 3 females.
When a new bird finds their way to your home, it’s critical to follow appropriate intake and quarantine guidelines, in order to protect your new resident, and the existing flock. Upon intake, the bird should be evaluated for signs of health issues, and any issues should be discussed with your veterinarian.
In order to reduce SE and other health risks, a complete dry cleaning, washing and disinfection of the poultry house after each flock or at minimum once each year is recommended. Successful cleaning is hard work and requires systematic completion of several sequential steps. Every step is important. Skipping one step or doing an incomplete job at any point will make the next step harder and lead to failure. Start by removing all birds from the building to be cleaned, along with all equipment that can be cleaned in another place, such as feeders and waterers.
Deep cleaning your goose enclosure
Dry Cleaning
Sweep or blow dust and other loose dirt off ceilings, light fixtures, walls, cages or nest boxes, fans, air inlets etc. onto the floor. Remove all feed from feeders. Scrape manure and accumulated dust and dirt from perches and roosts. Remove all litter from the floor. Litter can be added to a compost pile. Sweep the floor to remove as much dry material as possible. With a small coop, a wet-dry shop vacuum does a good job of removing this material. However, be careful to clean the filter often as the fine dust from the coop may easily clog the filter and make the vacuum work harder or lead to burn out of the motor.
Wet Cleaning
Turn the power off to the building prior to using any water for cleaning. Wet cleaning is done in three steps: soaking, washing and rinsing. Warm or hot water will do a better job getting through organic matter than cold water. You can use a cheap neutral detergent, like dish soap.
Soaking
Soak the heavily soiled areas (perches and roosting areas, floors, etc.) thoroughly. Use a low pressure sprayer to totally soak all surfaces. Soak until the accumulated dirt and manure has softened to the point it is easily removed.
Washing
Wash every surface in the building, especially window sills, ceiling trusses, wall sills and any surface where dirt and dust may accumulate. The washing solution can be either a neutral detergent (ph between 6 and 8) or an alkaline detergent (ph above 8). Alkaline substances vary in their strength with the strongest causing burns and internal injuries if swallowed. A mild alkali is baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and moderate alkalis include household ammonia, borax and trisodium phosphate. Strong alkalis include washing soda (sodium carbonate) and lye (caustic soda). Mix in hot water—160oF or hotter is best.
A high pressure sprayer is good for this step, but manual scrubbing with a moderately stiff brush is one of the best ways to insure a thorough cleaning. Inspect manually to be sure you have removed all of the dirt and manure from all surfaces. Make sure you carefully clean electrical parts. You may have to remove cover plates and vacuum those areas.
If you have metal surfaces with hard water scale, then you will need to use an acid detergent on those surfaces to remove the scale. Acid detergent involves acid as the major component which is used in dissolving mineral deposits (Calcium and Magnesium precipitates) or hard water deposits from equipment surfaces. Two main groups of acid detergents are: inorganic (HCL, H2SO4), and organic (Vinegar, Citric Acid).
Rinsing
A final rinse immediately after washing is recommended to remove any harmful residues and to obtain a spotless building. Mop up puddles as they can rapidly become breeding grounds for salmonellae.
Drying
Thoroughly air-dry the building if disinfection cannot immediately follow rinsing. Open all windows and ventilation openings. Use a blower or fan if available. Cleaning on a dry, sunny day helps in the drying process.
Repairs
Make any repairs to the structure prior to the final disinfection step. Seal any rodent entry holes at the outside and inside of the building. Apply a small amount of spray foam insulation into the hole, then pack in fine steel wool and top with more spray foam.
Are geese aggressive ?
There is this idea out there that geese are mean and super aggressive birds. But that is not true at all ! Geese got a bad reputation from how they are being portrayed in the media, just like sharks, Pitbull, etc. Geese, especially gander, always have a good reason to bite or be aggressive and that is mating season when the hormones are high or they have to protect their nest, babies, mate, from intruders. That is just a normal thing to do for them just like any other animals or even us humans ! In general, an animal is not aggressive just to be aggressive, there is always a reason behind it. Hungry, sick, protecting their family, threatened. There is always a reason behind their aggressivity. But they are absolutely no more aggressive than any other animals. A dog for example, might bite a stranger they do not know, that tries to pet them. We, as humans, are always tempted to pet an animal we see. A lot of birds just don’t like being petted, especially by strangers. If you know your birds really well, usually if someone asks to pet one of your geese, you can always tell which one of your geese would be less likely to bite. I totally trust my gander Kiwi not to bite anyone and he never has. Geese are very curious birds and sometimes they will come near you just to check you out. Oftentimes, more than not, they just want to observe you.
Calcium supplement for goose
Almost every spring brings at least one tale of female ducks or geese suffering from ‘egg binding’. Often lethal for the birds, it’s also stressful and sometimes expensive for their owner, and it is best to try to avoid this condition by good management. Always give calcium supplement to the food during the laying season to avoid egg binding, in the form of oyster shell.
How long to they live ?
Geese usually live for around 15 to 20 years but can live longer, depending how well they are cared for.
Are geese loud ?
Some geese are louder than others. Chinese and African geese are especially loud, while Sebastopol and Embden geese are on the quieter end of the spectrum, and all other breeds fall somewhere in between. I find my Chinese goose screams a lot as well as my two African mixed females. My Emden pair on the other hand are very quiet for the most part. I rarely hear them. Geese also scream in excitement when they see you ! That is how geese greet each other. I usually respond to my birds by being loud as well and that usually works pretty well and calms them down rapidly. Adding toys to their enclosure can also help to keep them quiet. To promote both their mental health and good behavior, decide to spend plenty of time with them, if for no other reason than your companionship, may help to limit their vocality. They love your presence and spending time around you, especially if you raised them from babies.
You found a Goose/gosling in need of help ?
Despite their social nature, if you are caring for a single gosling, who is without their mother, it’s still important to follow, proper intake and quarantine procedures. Failing to do so and immediately introducing them to your goose residents, could potentially spread disease. In the case of a single gosling in quarantine, additional attention should be paid, to addressing their social needs during this time. You might place a stuffed animal goose in with them. You might also include a mirror, and you can consider other safe social enrichment strategies as well.
In some cases, sanctuaries that have rescued a single gosling, have decided to welcome another gosling in need of rescue, so that the two can grow up together, after they have completed their quarantine, and/or gotten the all clear from a veterinarian.
Once new goslings have completed their quarantine and are deemed healthy, you can consider introducing them to your goose residents. The age at which you slowly start introducing goslings to the flock, will be dependent on personalities, nutritional needs, flock arrangements, and your set-up. In most cases, you should wait until they are at least 6 weeks old, though some caregivers prefer to wait quite a bit longer. Ideally, introductions are done in short, supervised meetings, spread over several days (or longer). If conducting a springtime introduction, keep in mind that ganders (male geese) may behave more territorially and should be closely monitored, they may be too rough at this point for young goslings.
A dark, quiet place
Keep the duckling or gosling in a dark, quiet place indoors, in an enclosed or covered container. For most species, a cardboard box is perfect. If your home is small, a closet or a bathroom is an excellent spot. A basement, heated garage, or spare bedroom will also work.
Keep children, pets, and people away from the room the duckling or gosling is in. Remember that it is injured and frightened, and we want to keep its stress down as much as possible. Unlike our pets, wild animals are not comforted by people talking to them, petting them, or looking at them.
A heat source
Once you’ve determined a baby duck or goose is orphaned, getting it a heat source is one of the most important things you can do. Babies may have been without their mother days. Keeping them warm will reduce stress on their system, once their body doesn’t have to fight to keep its temperature up. Some examples of an appropriate heat source:
- a clean sock filled with dry, uncooked rice, and microwaved for one minute
- a plastic bottle from the recycling bin filled with hot tap water
- an electric heating pad set to “LOW” and placed under half of the box.
Re-heat water bottles and rice socks as necessary. Once they have something warm to snuggle up to, most orphaned baby ducks and geese will go right to sleep.
No food or water
This is a tough one, because our first instinct is often to try to give food or water to an animal we’ve found. Until you’ve spoke to a wildlife rehabilitator, there are some really good reasons not to give the baby duck or goose food or water.
Why shouldn’t I feed it?
- If the duckling or gosling is dehydrated, starving, or suffering from trauma, its body may not be strong enough to digest food. Trying to feed it can cause bloating, shock, or death.
- Trying to force-feed food or water can accidentally end up with the liquid in the animal’s lungs. This can cause pneumonia, and death.
- If you feed the wrong food to the wrong species, it can cause serious digestive problems.
- Once you get the baby duck or goose to a wildlife rehabilitator, they will need to assess its condition and maybe run some medical tests. These are a lot easier to do if the animal hasn’t been eating. It’s just like when your doctor or veterinarian asks you or your pet not to eat the night before an appointment.
Once you’ve spoken to a wildlife rehabilitator, if they ask you to give the baby duck or goose some food please follow their advice.
Why shouldn’t I give it water?
- If the duckling or gosling is injured and having trouble standing, or if it panics trying to get out, it could fall into the water dish. This can cause hypothermia, or even drowning.
- Trying to force-feed water can accidentally end up with the liquid in the animal’s lungs. This can cause pneumonia, and death.
- Ducklings and goslings are naturally drawn to water, and will try to sit in it or swim in it. That’s normal for them, but without their mother to keep them warm they can become hypothermic. Best to keep them dry until you can find them help.
- Once you get the baby duck or goose to a wildlife rehabilitator, they will need to assess its condition and maybe run some medical tests. These are a lot easier to do if the animal hasn’t been drinking. It’s just like when your doctor or veterinarian asks you or your pet not to eat or drink the night before an appointment.
Once you’ve spoken to rehabilitator if they ask you to give the baby duck or goose some water please follow their advice.
Cons of Keeping Geese
- Geese are flock birds. They like company, so you must keep at least two geese, or you’ll have a very sad and lonely little friend.
- Although many people have male geese that are perfectly pleasant and adorable, others can be a bit “hissy” and even aggressive, especially if there are eggs or goslings to protect.
- You can’t tell the males from the females until they are about 9 months old. The females start to lay when their stomachs drop.
- They do leave a lot of droppings. You might want to keep them away from the house, and from paths. I will warn you that they tend to sit on the doorsteps and, if you have a glass door, they will tap at it to be let in.
- They produce large quantities of soggy wet bedding.
- They eat few things other than grass, but they do like chickweed, clover, dandelions, everlasting pea plants, etc.
- They make a lot of noise and are famous for being good watchdogs. In fact, they are infinitely better than dogs. Geese, know a stranger when they see one. They will also call out even if they know the person and sometimes shout out to greet you.
Pros of Keeping Geese
- They are lovable and friendly and can become very tame
- Goslings are super cute.
- They keep the grass cut.
- They are cheap to feed. They need only grass from April to October (the season when grass is growing). You can also feed them wheat and corn in the off-season.
- If you want to keep them as pets, they have great longevity (around 20 years).
- They are easier to look after than hens, as you can herd them around.
- They are good watch dogs.
- They lay fabulous eggs that you can eat, and you can also blow out the eggs and decorate them.
- The soggy wet bedding they produce makes excellent compost material.